Your itinerary begins in Winchester, the ancient capital of the kingdom of Wessex during the Dark Ages, and of the Saxons until William the Conqueror and the Norman armies invaded England in 1066. Start your tour at magnificent Winchester Cathedral, Norman built (circa 1079) on the ruins of a 7th century Benedictine monastery. The superb choir stalls are England's oldest and literary aficionados will discover Jane Austen's grave in the main cathedral building. Allow yourself at least an hour to enjoy the cathedral and perhaps to stroll down to the River Test behind the church buildings. It is a lovely walk, very peaceful and idyllic in parts. Outside the Close, in College Street, is the house where Jane Austen died. Further along the street is Winchester College, dating from 1382 and considered the "father" of all "public" (meaning private in "American") schools.

Your next stop in Winchester should be the Great Hall, all that remains of the once mighty castle built by William the Conqueror. Hanging in the Great Hall is the legendary Round Table of King Arthur and his knights. In fact, this table was built in the 13th century (Arthur ruled about 800 years earlier) but it is a beautiful, medieval masterpiece. In this hall Queen Mary (Bloody Mary), eldest daughter of Henry VIII, married Philip of Spain in the 16th century. Located on Castle Ave. Tel: (0)1962-846476.

The Westgate Museum, located on High Street, is one of the four medieval gatehouses in the city wall. The ceiling above the gate is a fabulous 16th century work of art. Opened daily April ­September, and Tuesday-Sunday, October-February. Tel: (0)1962 869864.

Stop for lunch at "Nine the Square" at 9 Great Minster St., the Square (of course!). It is closed on Sunday, however. Tel: (0)1962-864004. Or try one of the many delicious restaurants by the Cathedral or in the shopping area.

Directions from Esseborne Manor to Winchester: From the A343, take the B3048 across country to pick up the A303 heading east away from Andover. Then take theA34 south to Winchester.

After lunch head out of town for one of two destinations this afternoon:

1. For travelers who love antique automobiles, ancient abbey ruins, elegant country houses and small, quaint-villages we suggest a visit to Beaulieu in the New Forest, south of Winchester. Beaulieu is the home of the world-famous National Car Museum. This is truly a spectacular exhibit; one that no car buff should miss! And, while the car-lovers tour the museum, those travelers not quite as infatuated by chrome and polish can wander over to the ruins of the beautiful abbey, built under the instruction of King John in the early 13th century. Next to the abbey is the manor house, now the home of Lord Montagu and open for touring. Plan to spend at least two hours here, then stop in the village of Beaulieu for tea and a peek in some of the little shops.

If you have time, just a couple miles south of Beaulieu is Buckler's Hard, a very picturesque village on the edge of the Beaulieu River, known for its maritime museum that tells the story of 18th century shipbuilding. As you drive back through the New Forest, know that this was William the Conqueror's "new" forest and one of the most popular hunting forests of the Norman kings. It is also one of the only primeval oak woods left in England.

Directions from Winchester to Beaulieu: Take the M3 south to the M27 then head to the right down the M27 to Lyndhurst. Take the A337 in Lyndhurst to the B3856 into Beaulieu. Time from Winchester is about 30-45 minutes. Open daily. Tel: (0)1590 616203.

2. For those who answer the call of the sea, a trip to Portsmouth is a "must". Here travelers can view the hull of the Mary Rose, flagship of Henry VIII, which sunk just a few miles from the harbor on its maiden voyage to fight the French in 1545. The world watched as this hull was raised from the bottom of the sea in 1982, and the fact that this 500 year old, wooden ship was still intact with thousands upon thousands of artifacts onboard was truly a miracle. Next to the Mary Rose is HMS Victory, the ship on which Admiral Nelson was killed during the Battle of Trafalgar. You can also visit the 19th century ironclad Warrior then spend a fascinating hour, or more, at the Royal Naval Museum. Finally, you may wish to stop and pay your respects at the D-Day Museum and see the 272 foot long, embroidered tapestry depicting the D-Day landings during World War II. The ships are located on The Hard (at the wharf; watch for signs through town). Tel: (0)1705 839766. The D-Day museum is on the Clarence Esplanade. Tel: (0)1705 827261

On the literary front, Charles Dickens was born in Portsmouth and his home, now a museum, is located on Old Commercial Road. Open daily, April-October and December 7-22nd. Tel: (0)1705 827261

Directions from Winchester to Portsmouth: Take the M3 to the M27, and go left on the M27 toward Portsmouth and Fareham. Pick up the M275 at Portchester and drop directly south into Portsmouth. Ships and museums are open daily except Christmas holidays.