This morning our recommended itinerary sends you west, to the Isles. We begin by retracing our steps up the B845 to Taynuilt, turning left onto the A85 towards Oban, 10 miles down the road. Oban is a delightful seaside town that was, for centuries, the heart of the Clan McDougall's power, a clan that once owned nearly 1/3 of all Scotland.

But this itinerary takes you beyond Oban to the storybook Isle of Mull. Book in advance a day or two with Caledonian MacBrayne ferries at (0)1855 821277 for your car to travel with you to Mull. In summer the ferries leave Oban every two hours--plan on taking a morning ferry which takes about 40 minutes to reach Craignure on Mull.

This is a mystic island of woodland, moorland, high hills and low glens. Its turbulent history is forever intertwined with the Lords of the Isles, the MacDonalds, and the powerful MacLeans who "rule" the isle to this day. Mull was setting for many of the high adventures in Robert L. Stevenson's beloved adventure, "Kidnapped". Though the pirates of yesteryear are gone, this highland isle is still haunted with the ghosts of bygone days. It is 24 miles long with a western shoreline that is so indented with lochs and bays and secret pirate coves that there are actually 300 miles of coastline.The main roads hug the coast offering views of the sea and of the nearby Hebridean Islands.

Suggested sites and sights are:

Duart Castle, a 13th century fortress, was once the stronghold of the Lords of the Isles. It became the home of the chief of the Clan MacLean and was restored in the early part of the 20th century. The house contains much MacLean memorabilia and has an exhibit telling the story of MacLean chiefs.

Torosay Castle: A Scots "folly" of a castle, built in the 1850's with exquisite gardens and a vast collection of 19th century art and furnishings. There is a short narrow gauge steam & diesel train ride from Craignure to Torosay and tickets are available at the ferry landing.

Tobermory: This is the main town on the island. It is a colorful fishing port (some say the prettiest in Scotland) with houses brightly painted in shades reminiscent of the Caribbean, curving around the beautiful bay that protects the dozens of leisure craft harbored here against numerous North Atlantic storms. A Spanish galleon, one of the survivors of the Spanish Armada that attacked Henry VIII's ships (remember the Mary Rose that sank oust outside the harbor on its way to fight the Armada?) somehow ended up in Tobermory in 1588. It proceeded to sink with thirty million ducats on board after being blown up, of course. Whatever that amount of money was, it was substantial, even then!

Glen More, a seemingly harmless valley that is haunted by a decapitated horseman!

Mull and Iona folklore museum. Remember that Iona was the birthplace of Christianity in Western Scotland over 1500 years ago. This museum, near Tobermory is well worth a visit.

Directions from Oban back to Taychreggan Hotel: From the Oban ferry dock, return to the A85 heading towards Taynuilt and Dalmally. At Taynuilt, turn right onto the B845--signposted Kilchrenan --and follow this road 7 miles until it dead-ends at the hotel.

or Oban and Environs

An optional itinerary for Day 1 keeps your feet on the mainland, sightseeing in Oban and the environs. Among sights you may wish to take in:

McCaig's Tower, overlooking the town of Oban offers spectacular views in a rather unusual setting. This is an unfinished replica of the Coliseum in Rome that was begun by a local banker in 1890 as a family memorial. The tower dominates the Oban skyline and the view from there at sunset is highly recommended.

Dunollie Castle ruins, one north of Oban, the 13th century seat of the MacDougall clan, the Lords of Lorn. You have to climb a short, steep hill to reach the ruins (no fee) but it is worth it for the view overlooking the entrance of Oban harbour. The ruins are still owned by MacDougall of MacDougall who lives nearby in Dunollie House.

Dunstaffnage Castle, 3 miles north of town is a 13th century fortress with 10 foot thick walls. Don't forget that many of the Scottish Hebrides were once part of Norway and Dunstaffnage Castle was built as protection against the expected attack of the dreaded Norsemen from the other isles. It also served as a short-term prison for Flora Macdonald, the famous Scotswoman who helped Bonnie Prince Charlie escape from Scotland back to France with the English army hot on his heels.

Oban Distillery. The Stevenson family, founders also of the town of Oban founded this well known single malt distillery in 1794. Located on Stafford Street, in the center of town overlooking the harbour, it is open year-round for tours with restricted hours from December through February. (0)1631 572004.

Caithness Glass. Crystal factory shop and interpretive exhibition. Watch glassworkers transforming fine Scottish sand into glass. Caithness Glass is part of the Royal Doulton Group and both wares are available for purchase here. Open all year, closed Sundays. (0)1631 563 386.

For the children and animal lovers in your group, North of town is the Oban Sealife Centre with panoramic aquariums, sure to thrill the kids. South of Oban is the Rare Breeds Park where those funny looking highland sheep and cattle can be seen close up.

Save time for shopping in Oban, wandering along the sea front, enjoying fresh fish at one of many delicious restaurants and watching the boats and ferries at this bustling Highland port. During the summer months Highland Games take place in Oban, Taynuilt and other surrounding towns. Ask at Taychreggan for events that may be planned during your stay. If you have never been to REAL Scottish Games (not the exported version), it is a rare treat.

Directions from Oban to Taychreggan Hotel: From Oban return to the A85 heading towards Taynuilt and Dalmally. At Taynuilt, turn right onto the B845--signposted Kilchrenan--and follow this road 7 miles until it dead-ends at the hotel.