Ancient Scotland or Inverary Castle and Environs Our first itinerary is for lovers of ancient history. The itinerary takes us southwest to Kilmarten Glen, the Valley of the Ghosts.

Directions to Kilmarten Glen from Taychreggan: Retrace your steps up the B845 to Taynuilt, turning left on the A85 towards Oban. From Oban the road heads south, becoming the A816. Follow the A816 towards the village of Kilmarten, about 25 miles south. The route takes you round the head of lochs Melford and Craignish, giving fine coastal views of the Western Isles. The following sites on or just off the A816 on worth stopping at, depending on your interests.

Garden lovers will want to stop at Arduaine Gardens and spend time wandering the beautiful woodland trails in this 20 acre garden which includes a water garden and coastal viewpoints. Maintained by the National Trust, it is located 20 miles south of Oban on the A816.

Carnassarie Castle is a 16th century castle built by John Carsell, Bishop of the Isles, and destroyed in l685. Now a well preserved ruin with some detailed stonework and fine carvings. Located on the A816 at the head of Kilmarten Glen, one mile before Kilmartin Village.

Kilmarten Village has several interesting sites including Kilmartin Church with its ancient graveyard and good collection of Celtic crosses. Next door is Kilmartin House, formerly the church manse and now an archeological museum and interpretive center.

Past Kilmarten Village, relics of a prehistoric time can be seen in huge standing stones, cairns and crypts found at Nether Largie, Temple Wood and Ballymeanoch.

A fitting end to your day of visiting beautiful gardens, ruined castles, ancient standing stones and prehistoric relics is a visit to Dunadd Fort, capital of the ancient Kingdom of Dalriada, circa AD 500. Little remains of the fort except for a few stone carvings but it is these and the setting that make it truly memorable. Take a short steep trail up to the crest of this solitary volcanic outcropping. Standing on this windswept crest, surrounded by a vast plain and rung by mountains, it will be clear why the first kings of Scotland chose to be crowned here. Be sure to search out the unmarked ancient stone carved footprint, next to the carved water basin, and see if your footprint matches those of the first kings!

Our optional Day 3 itinerary is for lovers of stately homes and fine furnishings, military museums and tall ships. This itinerary takes us to Inverary Village

Directions from Taychreggan to Inverary: From Taychreggan retrace your steps 7 miles back up the single track road to the to the A85, turning right towards Dalmally. Shortly before Dalmally, turn right on the A819 towards Inverary

Inveraray Castle. Hereditary seat of the Dukes of Argyll, this castle has been headquarters of the powerful Campbell clan since the early 15th century. On display are French tapestries, a famous Amoury collection and fine examples of Scottish and French furniture. From the grounds of the castle, a 5 minute walk up Glen Shira leads to the pretty Falls of Aray and to the home of Rob Roy, which is now a ruin. Open April through mid-October. Open daily July ­ August, otherwise closed on Fridays. Phone: (0)1499-302-023.

Military history buffs will want to see the Combined Operations Museum, the site of the secret WWII Combined Training Centre. Here assault landing techniques evolved which culminated in the major WWII commando raids. Read newspaper accounts of these days--the battle plans, the story of these heroic and dangerous times. Follow the visits to Inverary of King George VI, Winston Churchill, U.S. General Patton and Lord Louis Mountbatten. The museum is located on the castle grounds, additional fee required.

Inverary Jail. Scotland's living 19th century prison. Eavesdrop on sensational trials held in this very room. Contains a blood curdling exhibition where you will see that before the days of prison, branding with a hot iron, ear nailing and public whippings were everyday punishments. Located on the Church Square. Open year-round, closed some winter days. Tel: (0)1499 302 381.

Inverary Maritime Museum. The kids will also enjoy this fascinating collection of Clyde maritime displays and memorabilia on board three unique masted schooners. Located at Inverary Pier and open year-round, closed some winter days. Tel: (0)1499-302-213.

Directions from Inverary to Taychreggan: From Inveraray, turn right onto the A8l9, signed to Oban. When the A819 dead-ends, turn left on the A85 towards Taynuilt and Oban. One mile before the village of Taynuilt, turn left onto the B845 signposted to Kilchrenan. Taychreggan Hotel is seven miles down this road.